Adventures in The Chilterns
Catch the bus to Wallingford, Nuffield Place, or Henley-on-Thames and enjoy some scenic adventures in the Chilterns.
Bus route 33 takes you past characterful villages, historic houses, undulating countryside, and secluded woodland. En route, you can sup at ancient inns, visit engaging museums, stroll through meadows, and try your hand at river boating.
Passengers from Oxford can take the 33 by taking the X40 River Rapids (a picturesque route) south to Crowmarsh Gifford Church, then crossing the road to board the 33 next to the church. And this is probably the best option.
Interested? To make planning even easier, here are some of our sightseeing ideas for summer, just a bus stop away:
View the 33 timetable and route map.
Destination: Henley-on-Thames
Henley-on-Thames is one of England's most picturesque towns, nestled among rolling wooded hills and an undulating green landscape. Best known for its annual royal regatta, which attracts some of the world's best rowers, there is also plenty to be said about coming during quieter times.
River and Rowing Museum
Explore the stories of the river, the town of Henley, the international sport of rowing in one of the UK’s leading independent museums, situated alongside the river in Henley-on-Thames.
The museum is home to the nation's rowing collection as well as more than 35,000 objects, which include gold coins from the Iron Age, Olympic medals, and an Anglo-Saxon log boat, among many other things. Despite this, the museum feels light and airy, and there is plenty of space for leisurely browsing without feeling crowded.
It’s a great place for families too. The museum includes a Wind the Willows 3D experience, a small Willows play area for youngsters, interactive games, fancy dress, and pathways in the main galleries. There are also a variety of children's workshops and family events, including a weekly under-fives group called Tiddlers.
There's also a shop specialising in children’s books and games, fashion and craft, and a café overlooking Mill Meadows which sells cakes made by an award-wining local baker.
The Riverside
Henley enjoys one of the most beautiful stretches of the river Thames. The Royal Regatta, which began in 1839 as a local celebration, has since grown into a globally recognised tournament with tickets selling quickly each year. Regattas aside, it is a wonderfully spacious, and scenic place to visit throughout the year, whether for leisurely strolls, lazy lunches or messing about on the river.
North of the River and Rowing Museum (near the bridge), you'll discover acres of tranquil open space (the so-called Mill meadow), a wildlife trail, a bandstand, crazy golf, and a couple of playgrounds for children - ideal for picnics and allowing kids to let off some steam.
Marsh Meadows, located to the south of the museum, is more informal in nature, with rough grass, various trees and shrubs, alongside an area dedicated to wildlife featuring a reed bed, small ponds, and a flower-rich meadow.
The river teems with activity. Mute swans, Canada Geese, Mallards and Coots amble along river's edge. Look closely and you may spot dragonflies hovering while damselflies glide over the water's surface, and butterflies like the Meadow Brown, Small Skipper and Small Tortoiseshells fluttering through the grassland.
Download this wildlife trail before you go.
For those who prefer to be on the river, it’s possible to book boat tours, and self-hire cruisers, kayaks, and canoes.
Ancient inns
Henley has many public pubs, some of which are on the Henley Ale Trail, but three stand out above the rest.
One of England's most photographed pubs is located near the Henley Bridge. The Angel on the Bridge has a colourful history and retains many of its original characteristics, including the stone abutments of an old wooden river bridge erected in 1170 and damaged during the Civil War in its cellar. The pub has riverside views, and the terrace outside is particularly popular during the warmer months.
Just across the street is the Red Lion Hotel, which was built in the 1600s as a coaching inn. The hotel has hosted numerous dignitaries, including King Charles I and Oliver Cromwell. The Prince Regent, who later became King George IV, is believed to have had 14 of their lamb chops in one sitting.
Closer to the town, the quaint Old Bell is documented as Henley's oldest bar, dating back to 1325. Vintage decor, low beamed walls, and a succession of chambers connect from the main bar. According to word of mouth, this is a popular local pub, and the welcome is warm and friendly.
Self-guided walking trails
Henley is so small and easy to explore that self-guided walking is a viable alternative. There are several routes available for download that will help you learn about the history of the town's buildings, including the Henley Trail, the Henley Ale Trail, and the Midsummer Murders Location Trails.
Additional advice can be found in the Grade II listed Town Hall based in Market Square where the Tourist Information Centre is located.
Destination: Nuffield
Nuffield is a small village located in the heart of the Chilterns, featuring a couple of listed buildings, a 12th-century church, a 17th-century public house (now a crafting space), one of the finest indoor golf courses in England, and a National Trust property, Nuffield Place, home of William Morris, Lord Nuffield.
Nuffield Place
Just outside of Henley-on-Thames is the former residence of William Morris, Lord Nuffield, the founder of the Morris Motor Car and a fan of gadgets and clocks. Despite his enormous riches, Lord Nuffield and his wife, Elizabeth, chose to live simply, donating a large portion of their income to a number of charitable organisations.
Their home and furniture are exactly as they were when they departed, from the small black and white TV in the lounge to Lord Nuffield's concealed miniature workshop, where he used to be constantly repairing something, including his own shoes.
There is a shop above that sells Morris Motors and MG memorabilia, as well as a secondhand bookshop. Outside, there's a coffee kiosk overlooking the wildflower meadow that serves hot drinks, cakes, and scones.
The Maker Space
Modern craft venue in a 17th century Grade II listed pub. Lovingly restored by its owners, it now features crafting workrooms where you can explore a range of activities from quilting to mosaic making. Additionally, there's a charming shop selling gifts and haberdashery, along with a cafe and beautiful garden to explore.
Destination: Nettlebed
Nobody knows how Nettlebed earned its name, although tradition has it that Roman troops in the first and second century AD rubbed nettles on their limbs to keep warm while marching. Whether that's true or not, Nettlebed became a significant location in ancient times since it was where the Henley to Oxford Road crossed the Chilterns, making it a vital staging point. To this day it is a popular thoroughfare between both locations.
It may not be the most obvious stopping point, but it is the ideal base for exploring the countryside. It is home to a historic 15th-century pub (the last one still standing there), a late 17th-century conical bottle kiln, and an organic farm and creamery, whose shop and café are popular with walkers, families, cyclists, and dogs alike.
Nettlebed Creamery
Since 1901, the same family has owned and operated this organic farm. The owner's grandparents founded the dairy in 1950, and it went organic in 2001. In 2015, they established the Creamery, which makes award-winning artisan cheese, milk, and kefir.
There is a shop on-site that sells bread, eggs, honey, pickles, and other items, as well as a magnificent open barn called The Cheese Shed, where you can have cheese toasties prepared with their multi-award-winning cheese and locally ground coffee brewed with their milk.
There is room for kids to play, and they have a wonderful program of events for families, including regular weekly groups like the Bertie Slippers Toddler Group and Wednesday craft sessions.
Walking in and around Nettlebed
There are numerous walks around Nettlebed, including those through the Nettlebed estates, which are still owned by the Fleming family, and the Warburg Nature Reserve, some of which are published on the Nettlebed Creamery website, as seen below.
Warburg Nature Reserve
This remote, tranquil valley high in the Chilterns (just a 30-minute walk from Nettlebed) contains an astonishing variety of habitats, including ancient forests, chalk grassland, and scrub, as well as a diverse assortment of flora and animals. Each season provides something unique here: In spring, the woodlands are carpeted with bluebells and woodland anemones; in early summer, the chalk grasslands are blooming with summer flowers such as pyramidal orchids, wild marjoram, and thyme; and in autumn, trees form a golden crimson canopy over meandering woodland walkways.
The reserve's main entrance houses a visitor centre with explanation displays, wildlife identification guides, and activity kits for youngsters to use on the Nature Detective Trails. There's also a bird hide and wildlife garden near the visitor centre.
Destination: Crowmarsh Gifford
Crowmarsh sits on the Eastern side of Wallingford where the west-east bus route (33) from Wallingford to Henley crosses the North-South (X40 River Rapids) route from Oxford to Reading.
This ancient village (originally a small medieval farming community providing rural trades and crafts) is perhaps best known for having only one street, called “The Street”, and being the place where the agriculturalist Jethro Tull (1674-1741) invented the revolutionary horse-drawn seed drill. His cottages can still be seen on the northern side of The Street.
If you're travelling from Oxford, get off at Crowmarsh Gifford Church and explore the area, or catch a bus to Henley-on-Thames.
Crowmarsh Gifford: St Mary Magdalene
The Church of St Mary Magdalene is the village's oldest building, dating back at least to 1140. In the 11th century, it served as a key fortified site for King Stephen in his battle for the crown with Empress Matilda, Henry I's daughter and royal successor. It also played a critical role in the English Civil War, when Cromwell's forces sought refuge from the Royalists. Check the vestry door for canon ball holes from this period.
Highlights also include a Norman font and a beautifully carved Jacobean pulpit.
Walking in Crowmarsh Gifford
Inside the church, there should be some walk-around guides to Crowmarsh Gifford and Newnham Murren that take about an hour to complete, beginning at the eastern end of Wallingford Bridge and taking you past a former medieval leper hospital, 12th-century siege forts, the home of agriculturalist Jethro Tull, and the centuries-old Queens Head pub, which still serves food and drink today.
Destination: Wallingford
A small market town in South Oxfordshire, perhaps best known as a well-used filming location for Midsomer Murders and the preserved rural ‘Bunk Line’ railway linking Wallingford with the mainline at Cholsey.
Hop off the X40 bus at Wallingford Market Place for most attractions.
Cholsey & Wallingford Railway
Cholsey and Wallingford Railway is located just over 10 minutes walk from the Wallingford Market Place bus station. You can board one of their 1950s carriages and travel through the picturesque South Oxfordshire countryside behind one of the historic diesel engines or a visiting steam engine.
Trains operate on weekends and bank holidays, and booking is required.
Wallingford Museum
Open throughout the year, this family-friendly local museum offers the chance to experience sights and sounds throughout history. Learn about the rich history of Wallingford, spanning from the Saxons and Romans to the Victorian era. The museum hosts regular events and offers guided walks every Saturday during the summer, usually from Easter weekend to the end of September.
Castle & Gardens
Only a short stroll from the museum are the ruins of a medieval castle that was built on the direct instructions of William the Conqueror.
The attractive Wallingford castle grounds are free of charge to the public and contain the best-preserved sections of the castle. If you climb to the top, you will glimpse views of the Thames. The adjacent castle meadows are also home to some diverse natural habitats and in Spring, an early display of snowdrops around the site of a former Victorian grotto is gradually replaced by a sweeping carpet of bluebells.
Wallingford Museum also offers guided castle walks at a cost of £10 per head.
Corn Exchange
Visit The Corn Exchange, home to Wallingford's theatre and cinema and where Agatha was patron of the Sinodun Players and regularly visited to watch theatre performances.
It is a bit of a local treasure and offers a broad range of drama, art, music and the latest cinema releases in a friendly, welcoming atmosphere. The Exchange Foyer bar serves evening drinks and coffee and homemade cake on select mornings.
They stage live screenings from other venues, and this Spring they will be screening performances from the Royal Opera House, National Theatre and The Royal Ballet.
Self-guided Agatha Christie trail
Learn more about the well-known mystery novelist Agatha Christie, who spent more than 40 years living in Wallingford. A five-mile walking route leads you to locations significant to her life, including her residence at Winterbrook House and her ultimate resting place at St. Mary's Church in Cholsey. You can either download the trail map here or visit the Visitor Information Center.
Self-guided Midsummer Murders Trail
Follow in the footsteps of the major characters and discover more about famous filming locations for Midsomer Murders, which was filmed in Wallingford. You can either download the trail map here or visit the Visitor Information Centre.
Other walking options in Wallingford
There's lots to explore on foot along the river, amid the ruins, and through the charming old streets, in addition to the Midsummer Murders and Agatha Christie trails. You may pick up walks and trails from the Town Information Centre.
River Relaxation
Enjoy a meal in a local pub by the river, a picnic in the meadows, a coffee from one of the many local cafes or hire a boat to explore the river and the Oxfordshire countryside. Hire boats are also available at the Boathouse pub.